What a perfect day for surfing, despite the rainy weather, with something for everyone to enjoy. There was 2-3 feet of swell, with a moderate off-shore wind which kept the face of the wave nice and clean. The newbies in our group had some lovely starter waves to get going on, while the more experienced surfers enjoyed some clean, mellow waves which were peeling right and left.
There were so many children who impressed us all with their skill, guts and determination today, but the wave of the day has to go to Edward! I couldn’t help smiling as I saw him pop up and ride a beautiful left hander, watching the rain on the water and feeling the spray off the waves in my face.
It’s after dinner now and we are all gathered in the sitting room, ready to round off and reflect on our day. The sun will set right outside the hostel window soon and there are some very tired looking, rosy-faced children; an early night tonight I think, ready for another day on the water tomorrow.